Rosy Boas are one of if not the best pet snake. They are unique in that they are a desert boa constrictor rather than the more popular jungle or rain forest variety. They have all the allure of a large boa constrictor but they remain a relatively small size by comparison reaching adult sizes between 2-4 feet. They are excellent feeders which take to frozen thawed rodents readily. But best of all they are very docile and generally easy to handle. They have a long lifespan of 20-30 years.

Enclosure

Due to the small size of this snake, a 25-40 gallon front opening enclosure that is more flat surface area than it is tall as these are ground dwelling snakes. An enclosure that is 36-48" wide by 18" deep and 12" tall is ideal in respect to space. This provides enough space to create a temperature gradient which is important to a snakes metabolism and overall health. This needs to be a very secure enclosure as even the smallest crack provides an opportunity for escape of these crafty contortionists. 

Substrate

Aspen chips(never cedar) make a good substrate that is absorbent of urate and also lends well to spot cleaning. Flat shale rocks make a natural and eye pleasing addition that rosy boas will like to explore.

Hides

There are many hides and enclosure features to be found at your local reptile supply shop that can look similar but be less wasteful of space and easier to clean. we recommend at least two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cold side.

Lighting

Rosy Boas are desert snakes and as such appropriate desert UVB lighting is recommended. Being nocturnal, they will often stay hidden from the light but should they feel unwell they will often bask in the UVB to boost their immune system. We do not recommend a night time red or blue light as this can disrupt their day/night light cycle.

Heating

We recommend Flukers style under tank heaters as they last longer hold up better than their zoomed counterpart. Make sure to always run your heater on a thermostat taping het sensor to the heat mut on the underside of the tank. Set the thermostat to around 92 degrees at the basking area.

Feeding

Juvenile rosy boas should be fed weekly to support growth, adults limited to 2-3 times monthly to prevent obesity and fatty liver disease. Feed 1-2 rodents no larger than the girth of the body of the snake as a general rule. Its best not to handle for 2 days after feeding to prevent regurgitation or discomfort.

Water

Rosy Boas are very drought tollerant in the wild and as such do not require a constant water supply. There are a few schools of thought here and its really going to come down to your specific snake. Some snakes will regurgitate meals and become unhealthy with constant water availability, other will bask in the water and soak without ever having an issue. Should your rosy develop issue with water that is always available, try removing he water and making it available 2 days after each feed for a couple of days, then take it out until the next feed.

Handling

As with any snake, always approach away from the head and pick up from behind. If your rosy boa has a strong feeding response, try gently petting it with a pair of tongs prior to picking it up so it knows its not feeding time. Make sure to support their body and they will explore you.  They are naturally curious and fun to watch.

Brumation

Wile Rosy boas brumate in the wild, it is not necessary when not breeding. Leaving your heat up all winter can often times eliminate the need to brumate.  That being said, some animals can sense the seasons and just naturally slow down. It is important to slow your feeding at this time, and never turn off the heat for sever weeks after a last meal if you plan to let them brumate or they may get sick from rotting food. Read up carefully on this subject before letting your snake brumate.